The Art of Eyeliner for Hooded Eyes: Expert Tips and Tricks
Eyeliner can be a tricky business, especially as our eye shape evolves over time. But fear not, I'm here to share some insider secrets from the legendary makeup artist Ruby Hammer, who has worked her magic on the likes of Helen Mirren, Sharon Stone, and Kate Moss.
The Eyeliner Conundrum
As we age, our eyelids may become hooded, causing the skin to sag and the crease line to disappear. This shift in eye shape can render our trusted makeup techniques obsolete, leaving us wondering how to adapt our eyeliner game. Many women find themselves asking, "What's the secret to eyeliner application on hooded eyes?"
Ruby Hammer, a seasoned pro in the beauty industry, has heard this question countless times. In her words, the solution isn't about steady hands or abandoning eyeliner altogether. It's about embracing the unique characteristics of hooded eyes and working with them, not against them.
The Magic of Optical Illusions
Ruby reveals three ingenious techniques that create the illusion of a more defined eye, even on hooded lids. These methods are not only effective but also universally flattering, ensuring that everyone can achieve that coveted eye-opening effect.
The Batwing Technique
For a crisp and timeless liquid wing, Ruby introduces the 'Batwing' technique. This method is a game-changer, eliminating the frustration of crooked or smudged wings. The key is to keep your eyes wide open and relaxed while mapping out the shape. Draw the outer flick towards the brow's tail, then connect it back to the lash line with a straight, horizontal line across the resting fold of the skin. This creates a stepped notch, resembling a bat's wing when your eyes are closed, but magically transforms into a perfect wing when you open your eyes. It's like an optical illusion!
Soft and Smoky
If you're a fan of a more diffused look, Ruby suggests the 'Soft Wing' technique. This method relies on texture rather than precise lines, making it incredibly forgiving. Using a dense angled brush and a richly pigmented eyeshadow, stamp a soft flick at the outer corner of the eye. Ruby recommends deep, flattering shades like espresso, charcoal, or navy. Blend the top edge for a smoky effect, which not only elongates the eye but also glides over skin folds, creating a seamless and elegant finish.
Tightlining: The Secret Weapon
For hooded eyes, preserving lid space is crucial. Ruby suggests tightlining, a technique that involves applying liner within the upper lash line rather than on top of it. By using a waterproof, long-wear gel pencil in rich brown, aubergine, or classic black, you can gently lift the upper lashes and press the pigment into the upper waterline. This fills in gaps between lashes, creating the illusion of a thick lash line while keeping the eyelid bare and bright. It's a subtle yet powerful way to define the eyes without overwhelming them.
Long-Lasting Results
To ensure your eyeliner stays put on hooded eyes, Ruby emphasizes the importance of priming. Whether you're creating a dramatic batwing or a diffused shadow flick, always start with a gripping eye primer or a long-wear matte cream shadow to lock in the look. This prevents natural skin oils from breaking down the makeup and ensures it lasts all day.
Final Thoughts
In my opinion, these techniques are a testament to the power of understanding and embracing our unique features. Ruby Hammer's insights show us that makeup is not about fighting against our natural beauty but rather enhancing it. By using strategic placement and optical illusions, we can redefine the rules of eyeliner application, making it work for every eye shape and age. It's all about celebrating our individuality and finding creative ways to express it through makeup.
